Bhatt ki Churkaniभट्ट की चुड़कानी
Video: Chef Bhupi's kitchen (YouTube)
Bhatt ki Churkani is the soul of pahadi kitchens — a robust, earthy curry built from bhatt, the indigenous black soybeans grown across the Kumaon and Garhwal hills of Uttarakhand for centuries. Unlike common soybeans, bhatt carry a deeper, nuttier flavour with a subtle bitterness that soaks up mountain spices beautifully. The dish is awakened by jakhiya (also called jakhia in the local Kumaoni dialect — the wild mustard seed, Cleome viscosa, endemic to the Himalayas) that crackles in smoking mustard oil and fills the kitchen with a pungent, herbal warmth found nowhere else in Indian cooking. This is mountain comfort food at its most honest, best eaten with mandua ki roti on a cold pahadi evening.
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This recipe is the same everywhere — but where you buy the ingredients and eat the dish is local to you.
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Ingredients
- ▪Bhatt (Uttarakhand black soybeans), soaked overnight in cold water200 g (1 cup dry)
- ▪Mustard oil2 tbsp
- ▪Jakhiya seeds (wild mustard / Cleome viscosa; called 'jakhia' in Kumaoni)1 tsp
- ▪Cumin seeds1 tsp
- ▪Dry red chilies, broken in half3
- ▪Onion, finely chopped1 medium (about 120 g)
- ▪Garlic, minced5 cloves
- ▪Ginger, grated1-inch piece
- ▪Tomatoes, finely chopped2 medium (about 200 g)
- ▪Turmeric powder½ tsp
- ▪Coriander powder1 tsp
- ▪Red chili powder½ tsp
- ▪Salt1¼ tsp, or to taste
- ▪Fresh coriander leaves, chopped, for garnish2 tbsp
- Jakhiya is the soul of this dish and worth seeking out — in the UK, US, or Australia it can be ordered from specialist Indian grocery websites under 'jakhiya seeds' or 'Cleome viscosa'. In a pinch, a mix of ½ tsp black mustard seeds and a pinch of ajwain (carom seeds) approximates the crackling herbal heat, though the flavour will be noticeably different.
- Bhatt soybeans from Uttarakhand may be labelled 'pahadi black soybean' or 'Kumaoni bhatt' in Indian stores. Regular black soybeans work as a substitute and will cook slightly faster; kala chana (black chickpeas) is a more distant but acceptable substitute with a firmer bite — the earthy, slightly bitter note unique to bhatt will be absent.
- Mustard oil is essential for authentic pahadi character; if genuinely unavailable, use a neutral oil and add a tiny pinch of hing (asafoetida) to the tempering along with the jakhiya to partially compensate for the depth and sharpness that mustard oil provides.
Method
- 1Drain and rinse the soaked bhatt. Pressure-cook with 3 cups fresh water and ½ tsp salt for 4–5 whistles on medium heat, then allow the pressure to release naturally (about 15 minutes). The beans should be fully cooked but still hold their shape — they are denser than regular soybeans and need the full cooking time. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.
- 2Heat mustard oil in a heavy-bottomed kadai over high heat until it reaches its smoking point and a faint haze rises — this crucial step removes the raw pungency of the oil. Reduce heat to medium-low and allow the oil to cool for 30 seconds.
- 3Add jakhiya seeds first and let them crackle for 20–30 seconds. They are smaller and more delicate than mustard seeds and will turn bitter if burned, so watch them closely. Add cumin seeds and broken dry red chilies; fry for another 30 seconds until fragrant and the chilies deepen in colour.
- 4Add the chopped onion and fry on medium heat for 8–10 minutes, stirring regularly, until golden-brown and beginning to catch at the edges. Add garlic and ginger; cook for 2 more minutes until the raw smell completely disappears.
- 5Add tomatoes and cook on medium heat, pressing and mashing occasionally, for 6–8 minutes until the oil separates visibly at the edges of the masala. Stir in turmeric, coriander powder, and red chili powder; cook for 1 more minute to bloom the spices.
- 6Add the cooked bhatt and the reserved cooking liquid. Stir well to coat the beans with the masala. Bring to a gentle boil, then simmer uncovered for 10–12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gravy reduces to a thick, semi-dry consistency that clings to each bean — this clinging quality is what 'churkani' describes.
- 7Taste and adjust salt. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves and serve hot with mandua ki roti (finger millet flatbread) or steamed rice — the traditional pahadi pairing that makes this a complete, sustaining meal.
A Desi.Net original recipe · part of our Indian Cuisine library. Confirm details and adjust to taste.